Norwegian Fish Cakes (Fiskekaker)

Method

1. Cut the fish into 1-inch chunks and spread on a plate. Place in the freezer for 15–20 minutes until very cold but not frozen solid. Cold fish processes better — the proteins bind more effectively and the texture stays light. Meanwhile, grate the onion on the fine side of a box grater.

2. Pulse the cold fish in a food processor with the egg, potato starch, cream, nutmeg, salt, and white pepper. Pulse 8–10 times until you have a coarse paste with some visible chunks of fish remaining. Don't run the processor continuously — you want texture, not baby food. Scrape down the sides between pulses.

3. Fold in the grated onion and dill by hand with a spatula. The mixture should be thick enough to hold its shape when scooped — if it's too loose, add another tablespoon of potato starch. Refrigerate for 15 minutes to firm up.

4. Shape the fish cakes using wet hands (the mixture is sticky). Form into patties about 3 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick — roughly the size of a hockey puck. You should get 8–10 cakes. Place them on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Uniform thickness ensures even cooking.

5. Fry in butter over medium heat. Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a large skillet. When the foam subsides, add the fish cakes — don't crowd the pan. Cook for 3–4 minutes per side until golden brown and cooked through. The center should be opaque and firm when pressed. Add more butter between batches.

6. Serve immediately with boiled potatoes, a dollop of creamy dill sauce or remoulade, and lemon wedges. The fish cakes should be golden on the outside, moist and flaky on the inside, with a clean fish-and-dill flavor.

Equipment

• Food processor Recommended: Vitamix VX1
• Large nonstick skillet or cast iron skillet Recommended: Lodge 12-Inch Pre-Seasoned Cast Iron Skillet
• Spatula Recommended: GIR Ultimate Silicone Spatula
• Rimmed sheet pan (for shaping) Recommended: Nordic Ware Natural Aluminum Half Sheet Pan

Chef Notes

• The most important thing: The fish must be cold — almost frozen — when you process it. Warm fish turns mushy and the proteins won't bind properly. Chill the fish in the freezer for 20 minutes before making the mixture.
• Potato starch is the traditional binder, not breadcrumbs. It creates a lighter, more delicate texture. Cornstarch works identically.
• Don't overwork the mixture in the food processor — pulse until just combined with some small chunks remaining. Over-processing makes the cakes rubbery. You want a coarse paste, not a smooth purée.
• Fry in butter, not oil. The milk solids in butter brown and create a nutty crust that's characteristic of Scandinavian fish cakes. Watch the heat — butter burns faster than oil. Medium heat, not high.
• These are Norwegian fiskekaker — a weeknight staple, not a fancy dish. They should be simple, clean-flavored, and comforting.

Common Substitutions

Ingredient	Substitution	Notes
Cod	Haddock, pollock, or halibut	Any firm, mild white fish works. Avoid oily fish
Potato starch	Cornstarch	Identical function — both create a light, delicate bind
Heavy cream	Whole milk	Slightly less rich but works. Don't use skim
Fresh dill	1 tsp dried dill	Fresh is significantly better here — dried dill tastes flat
Butter (for frying)	Clarified butter or ghee	Won't burn as easily — good if you struggle with butter browning

What You're Practicing

Fish cakes teach you the fundamentals of protein binding — how egg, starch, and cold temperature work together to hold ground or processed protein in a cohesive shape. This same principle applies to meatballs, crab cakes, and dumplings. The key insight is temperature: cold protein binds better because the fat stays solid and the proteins are more reactive. Visit Techniques for more on protein binding.

You're also practicing pan-frying in butter — a technique that requires more attention than oil-frying because butter has a lower smoke point. Learning to manage butter's browning (the sweet spot between golden and burned) is a skill that elevates everything from omelets to sautéed fish. Explore more at Techniques.